Bangkok, Thailand

It took me a while to process my first day in Bangkok.  I had arrived from Tokyo very late the night before and took a taxi from BKK to my hostel off Silom Road.  It was dark, raining, and the driver didn’t speak a lick of English.  All of the street signs were in Thai.  There were periods of the 45 minute drive from BKK to downtown Bangkok when we were the only car on the road.  At one point, the driver requested that I pay the tolls (standard in Thailand), and I had no idea what he was talking about or why he wanted my money.  As a native New Yorker and avid traveler, I am rarely that far out of my comfort zone.  But I was nervous.

Bangkok is complete chaos.  As a New Yorker, I thrive on the energy of my city.  On first impression, Bangkok is uncivilized energy.  People everywhere, the loud motors of tuk tuks whizzing by, drivers eager to say anything to escort you to your destination.  My first tuk tuk driver offered to escort me to the pier, only two blocks away, for 10 Baht.  That’s around $0.03 USD. However, I was escorted to his friend’s tourism shop half way across town.  That’s ok.  I arrived safely at the pier about 10 minutes later and the ride still cost only 10 Baht.  Business in Thailand is all about kickbacks.

My second interaction with a tuk tuk driver was around the Grand Palace.  Tuk tuk drivers will approach you and tell you the Grand Palace and Temples are closed for holiday, closed to non-Thai people, or closed for the day, and convince you to let them take you to other sights. Fortunately, I had read about this scheme prior to arrival.  (Never one to pass up an opportunity to make myself laugh, I proceeded to ask detailed questions about what holiday it was and how it’s celebrated.  You should too.  You will get some funny responses.)

Tuk tuk off Silom Road.

Busy intersection near Wong Wian Yai train station.

Bangkok is a dirty city.  That’s undeniable.  But amidst the dirt and chaos is so much beauty. Children playing barefoot in the street.  Small markets lining street corners. Elaborate temples in the middle of ruins.  Flower garlands swaying in the breeze.  Bright fruits I had never seen before. Fresh coconuts for 15 Baht.  Street food that smells so good you almost forget you’re eating street food.  It’s a bit of a culture shock.

Buildings outside Wong Wian Yai train station.

One of the many street markets selling dried fish and other goods.

Wat Kaek Silom.

Flower garland.

Beautiful bright-colored fruits.  On the left are star fruit (carambola).  They taste like apples, but are shaped like stars.  Some vendors will give them to you chopped in a bag and topped with sugar.  The bright pink fruit in the back are dragon fruit (pitaya).

Fresh pomegranate.  (You will quickly become desensitized to bees and flies buzzing around your food.)

Rambutan.

My standard Thai breakfast.

Of course, the essence of a city, that which goes beyond what you’ve seen in a thousand guide books, is best reflected in the people who bring it life.

Later that day, I found myself on Khao San Road, a legendary backpacker’s street, stuck in a cafe during monsoon.  That’s ok, it had internet, served pad thai, and I met a fellow traveler who I ended up traveling to Koh Phangan with.

Khao San Road during monsoon. About 5 inches of water flooded the street in a 20 minute period.

By the time I went to sleep that first night in Bangkok, I felt as though I’d been there for a week.

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