Thailand’s Floating Markets: Hit Amphawa, Skip Damnoen

Amphawa Floating Market

Amphawa Floating Market is one of the true gems of Thailand.  I arrived at Amphawa via tuk tuk from the 7-11 outside of the Maeklong Railway Market (scroll down for directions).  I was the only non-Thai in the tuk tuk and, truth be told, I had no idea if I was going to the right place.  It only added to the complete confusion surrounding my travels to Maeklong.

Amphawa is a picturesque market sitting on the Amphawa canal, a network of hundreds of canals connecting to the Maeklong River.  There simply doesn’t exist anything like it in most parts of the world, though floating markets were once as common in parts of Asia as any other type of market.  Amphawa is a special place and maintains a distinctively local flavor.  There are hardly any western tourists, and it’s easy to immerse yourself in the Thai way of life.

I arrived at Amphawa as school in Thailand let out, and my tuk tuk was filled with young Thai students still wearing their school uniforms.  You can see their blue uniforms in the background of the below photo.

It’s quite amazing how the food is prepared and served on the boats.

The cooks on these boats aren’t wearing cheesy Thai hats and they aren’t trying to sell you anything.  They’re merely going about their business as they would have decades ago.

The seafood at Amphawa was some of the most amazing seafood I ate in Asia (and I had some seriously amazing sushi in Japan!).  Just look at it – food porn!  I realize I may sound overexcited at the thought of fresh crabs, lobster and squid, but I can’t help myself.  (Presently salivating at computer…)

On the way into the floating market, there is a non-floating market selling everything from soft-shell crabs to Thai sweets.  Take a closer look – all Thai people.

Amphawa Floating Market is operational Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays from 12pm to 8pm.  I suggest combining a visit to Amphawa with a visit to the Maeklong Railway Market (directions to Maeklong can be found here).  If you take an early train to Maeklong, you’ll have time to see a train run through the market and still have the afternoon to spend at Amphawa.  You can easily get to Amphawa from the Maeklong Railway Market by hopping in one of the blue tuk tuks outside of 7-11.  The ride is relatively short and costs around 10 Baht.  It’s an awesome experience; you won’t regret it.

Skip Damnoen Saduak

Damnoen Saduak Floating Market is the floating market most commonly visited and referred to by tourists.  Like the Rialto Bridge in Venice in summer, hordes of tourists flock there and a market that was likely once visited by locals is now clearly staged for tourists.  Cheesy hats, less than stellar Thai food, crowded canals – it’s disappointing. Take a look at the photo below – you can see tourists taking photos in the background.  It’s difficult to get a photo of Damnoen otherwise.

If you take a boat ride around Damnoen, you will be escorted by several vendors selling cheesy trinkets and souvenirs.  It’s clear the market is a hollow shell of what it once was.

If you choose to visit Damnoen anyway, there is a swampy area behind the market that maintains a local feel and is aesthetically quite interesting.

While disappointed with the actual market, I have fond memories of my time there.  I love this photo!

Unlike Amphawa, Damnoen is a morning market, open until around noon daily.  It’s a way’s drive from Bangkok, so you’ll have to be up early.  But, as I’ve expressed, I’d skip Damnoen.  It’s a pretty market, but the touristic feel really cheapens the experience.

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